Thursday, June 3, 2021

Some of the best affordable divers' watches in my collection

 Why divers' watches?


Here are some reasons:

- they are built to last;

- they are built to withstand water pressure;

- they are appropriate for all daily activities;

- you don't have to take them off when you shower, swim, sleep etc.;

- they come in different colors and designs. 


What makes a divers' watch a diver's watch?

Of course there are certain requirements in the industry to qualify as a divers' watch. Here are the minim specs for this category of watches:

- stainless steel case (of other tough material to withstand water pressure)

- rotative bezel 

- at least 200 meters of water resistance (tested)

- screw-down case-back;

- screw-down crown;

- luminous indicators on dial;

- luminous hands. 

- they can have quartz, solar, mechanical or automatic movements. 



Do they look the same? Of course not. There are a lot of differences in design and features but there are 3 icons I would think about when hearing "divers' watches": Rolex Submariner, Seiko SKX, Vostok Amphibia. No, I do not own a Rolex but I do have some of its homages. 

Now, let's see what are the watches I own, tested and recommend them to anyone searching for good looking affordable watches. I will list them in increasing value order: 

1. Vostok Amphibia Scuba Dude - with upgraded bezel and hands (approx. 100 USD)

Chunky watch, made in Russia and designed for the Russian Army in the '60, remains a point of reference in the watch making industry for its innovation in water-resistance design (pressed acrylic glass, thick rubber gaskets, non-detachable crow-stem assembly). Equipped with a Vostok 2416b automatic movement, 31 jewels, performs decently but accuracy it is not a strong point. Fun to wear, a good watch for daily use. Wide range of dials and case shapes to choose from. 

Refinement: 7/10  Comfortable: 7/10   Eye-catcher: 7/10   Diving performance: 10/10   Reliability: 8/10


2. Alpha Submariner (approx. 120 USD)

One of the best Rolex Sub homages (old model style) at this price range. It is made in China by Alpha Watches, sells in a high quality stainless steel case with a nice glossy/matte finish. Equipped with a Miyota 8215 automatic movement, 21 jewels, performs decently and can be quite accurate. Fun to wear, a good watch for daily use. Narrow range of dial colors to choose from. 

Refinement: 7/10  Comfortable: 7/10   Eye-catcher: 7/10  Diving performance: 7/10  Reliability: 8/10


3. Steeldive Submariner (approx. 130 USD)

One of the best Rolex Sub homages (new model style) at this price range. It is made in China by Steeldive Watches, sells in a high quality stainless steel case with a nice brushed matte finish. Equipped with a Seiko NH35 hackable automatic movement, 24 jewels, performs decently and can be quite accurate. Fun to wear, a good watch for daily use. Narrow range of dial colors to choose from.  

Refinement: 7/10  Comfortable: 8/10 Eye-catcher: 8/10  Diving performance: 9/10  Reliability: 9/10

4. Invicta Sumbariner (approx. 150 USD)

One of the best Rolex Sub homages at this price range. Invicta is an American Brand but the watches are made in China, sells in a high quality stainless steel case with a nice glossy finish. Equipped with a Seiko NH35 hackable automatic movement, 24 jewels, performs decently and can be quite accurate. Fun to wear, a good watch for daily use. Narrow range of dial colors to choose from.             

Refinement: 8/10  Comfortable: 8/10  Eye-catcher: 8/10  Diving performance: 9/10  Reliability: 9/10 

5. Orient Mako  (approx. 180 USD)

Made in Japan by Orient, equipped with an old workhorse 46943 non- hackable automatic movement, 21 jewels, performs decently and can be quite accurate. Fun to wear, a good watch for daily use. The newer version, Mako II has also a new hackable movement F6922, a the separate day change button disappeared.    

Refinement: 9/10  Comfortable: 9/10  Eye-catcher: 7/10  Diving performance: 9/10  Reliability: 8/10 

6. Citizen ProMaster (approx. 210 USD)

Made in Japan by Citizen, equipped with an old workhorse Miyota 8203 non- hackable automatic movement, 21 jewels, performs decently and can be quite accurate. Has a fantastic dial design, durable luminous cover on indices and hands. Very comfortable having the crowing at 8 o'clock, a good watch to wear for sports. Also a good diver's choice.   

Refinement: 9/10  Comfortable: 9/10  Eye-catcher: 9/10  Diving performance: 10/10  Reliability: 9/10 

7. Seiko SKX007 (approx. 250 USD)

Made in Japan by Seiko, equipped with an old workhorse 7S26 non- hackable automatic movement, 21 jewels, performs decently and can be quite accurate. Has a fantastic yet simple dial design, durable luminous cover on indices and hands. It is true icon among collectors. I own two of them, both modded with the hackable NH36A movement. 

Refinement: 9/10  Comfortable: 9/10  Eye-catcher: 10/10  Diving performance: 10/10  Reliability: 9/10

8.  Steinhart Ocean One (approx. 500 USD)

We are moving to different league in the world of submariner homages. Steinhart Ocean One is made in Germany using some of the best materials and level of refinement. It is equipped with an old swiss workhorse ETA 2824-2 hackable automatic movement, 25 jewels, performs well and is quite accurate (up to +/-3 seconds/day). Excellent choice night outs on the beach.   

Refinement: 9/10 Comfortable: 9.5/10 Eye-catcher: 9.5/10  Diving performance: 10/10  Reliability: 10/10

9. Marcello C Nettuno 3 (approx. 900 USD)

Marcello C in my opinion is the best German manufacturer of submariner homages. The quality of Nettuno 3 is fantastic.  It is equipped with an  ETA 2824-2 elaboree version, hackable automatic movement, 25 jewels, performs well and is quite accurate (up to +/-3 seconds/day). Excellent choice night outs on the beach, but also in the office if you wish to be noticed. 

Refinement: 10/10  Comfortable: 10/10  Eye-catcher: 10/10  Diving performance: 10/10  Reliability: 9/10

That's it for today! They prices can vary, but remember that any of the above watches can be bought second-hand (ebay.com, catawiki.com) at very attractive prices...

Tuesday, January 7, 2020

Passion for watches? Why not?

Some people have no passion or hobby, some do. Some collect matches, some cars, weapons or chemical solutions. It really doesn't matter what we like as long as it is legal, moral and gives a state of well-being. Excepting the professional interests, my personal ones are related to:
- Electronics
- Musical Instruments
- Crafting various things in my workshop

But my lifetime passion is related to "The magical world of watches". I love to buy them, wear them, repair them, modify them. For me, a watch is not only a timekeeper or an accessory. I'd like to believe that the watch is one of the greatest inventions, a miracle device that gives sense to a chaotic world and offers joy to the owner and admirers.
While I have a huge respect for all makers, technologies, shapes and sizes I have to admit that I like mechanical (automatic) watches. I have owned/own from old cheap Chinese watches to modern mid-ranged Swiss ones. I don't afford expensive watches (for example Rolex, IWC or Patek Philippe) and I won't sell a kidney to buy one. People should deserve such watches and somehow the watch reflects their status. It's OK for a president to wear a Patek and for a construction worker to wear a Casio. It would be odd to be vice-versa. However, there are many impostors wearing expensive watches without having any particular quality or virtue. Some people pretend to be richer buying replica watches to impress others. It is their option but I never liked the idea of wearing a replica watch. In stead, a well made homage model with a sterile dial is the way to go.

This passion for watches may come in many forms: some people are niche collector (High-end only, Rolex only, Seiko only, vintage Casio only, Diver's only), others buy and restore vintage mechanical watches, others prefer to analyze and review them, some people hunt for cheapos, others search all flea-markets to buy hidden jems and re-sell them at a higher price.

As a matter of preference, instead of buying a Tag Heuer Aquaracer and wear it everyday I prefer buying 4-5 less expensive but reliable watches and wear them by rotation.

Brands and models I like (and own):

1. Diver's watches: Seiko (6309, 7002, SKX), Orient (KD, MAKO), Citizen (Promaster), Vostok (Amphibia), Invicta (8926OB), vintage french diver's (for example Mortima), vintage swiss diver's (Sicura, CYMA).

2. Elegant/ casual watches: Tissot, Hamilton, Seiko, Orient, Alpha Radiomir, vintage swiss and french watches.

My top watch movements (based on their popularity, reliability and my ability to service them :-)

Swiss: ETA 2824-2, ETA 2836-2, ETA 2879 (also vintage FHF, AS, EB)
Japan: Seiko 7S26, 7S36, NH35, NH36, Orient 46943, Miyota 8200, 8215
French: Cupillard 233-68
Russian: Vostok 2416b, 2414 (also vintage Raketa, Poljot)
Chinese: Seagull ST19, ST21, ST25

I am a hobbyist and not necessarily a collector. I have other hobbies too and I cannot pump money only to buy watches. Sometimes I buy dusty gems from flea-market, repair and refurbish them. The list of operations may include (but not limited to):
- movement repair/cleaning/servicing
- case polishing
- crystal replacement/polishing
- bezel repair/replacement of the insert
- crown tube replacement, fitting screw-down crowns
- making of custom made dials

I wanted to learn to repair watches because it is a way to cultivate patience. It is my only activity that does not require a fast approach. Oh, there is another one but I keep it secret :-) 
Like in any other hobby if you love watches you need to invest some money-you can set the limit, dedicate time to research and inform yourself, allocate time and patience to restore them if you have this ability or just admire them.
If your collection is too big, feel free to sell some (just to get some money to buy others)!

WATCH YOURSELF! until next time...



        

Some of the best affordable divers' watches in my collection

  Why divers' watches? Here are some reasons: - they are built to last; - they are built to withstand water pressure; - they are appropr...